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Getting to the centre of
Valencia from the airport is a doddle. You unpack and settle
into your downtown self-catering apartment and already you are
thinking about paella. No one has told you that the easiest
mistake to make is ordering paella in the centre of Valencia.
Most probably you also do not
know that Valencia is bang in the middle of Spain's market
garden. Put on an empty rucksack and head straight for the
Mercado Central to stock up on fruit and salad. It is an
authentic homage to real food. The fruit and vegetables are
spectacularly presented and you will see photographers snapping
away all over the place. The fish and seafood are like something
out of a film and you will see chefs carefully picking out the
best.
Now it is time for the best
patatas bravas in Spain. Go down Barón de Carcer street,
which is at the back of the market, until you reach number 31,
El Tostadero. Most likely, you will have to stand but it is
totally worth it.
For a delicious seafood
paella take the metro to the Las Arenas beach where there is a
row of famous and reasonably priced restaurants right by the
sand. Be patient as real paellas are prepared individually and
take half an hour or so. While away your time munching baby
clams or tellinas.
Another day, visit the fine
art museum by the dry river bed, which is now a magnificent
park. It is a must, if only to see Velazquez's self-portrait and
shiver as his glaring eyes follow you around the hall. After
that, cross the bridge to the city gates and dive into Bar
Serranos, where the taxi drivers have their brunch. Order a
chivito French sandwich. Vegetarians can go upriver a few
blocks until Salvador Giner street and feast in Las
Tastaolletes, possibly the finest cuisine in the city and for a
mere 12 euro.
For downtown shopping go to
Colón street which is Valencia's main thoroughfare. Stop for a
break in Bar Líbano, Number 42 and order some esgarraet,
which is a mixture of strips of red pepper and salted cod.
For the gutsier travellers, I recommend my absolute favourite
rice dish, arroz a banda. Take a taxi to La Genuina in
Pinedo near the port. You will need to book ahead, otherwise you
will be turned away and don't forget to order the orange flan
for desert. For the even braver, try El Aquilino. All you have
to do is get on the number 4 bus in Valencia's main square El
Ayuntamiento in front of the Moratín theatre and get off at the
last stop. It's a great ride and don't worry about the
desolation of the area. The restaurant is the only restaurant in
site and you will be the only tourists there for sure. Once
again, if you don't book ahead, your journey will have been in
vain.
For the
truly intrepid travellers, take a yellow country bus out to the
village of El Palmar by the lagoon. You may be dropped off in
the middle of nowhere and end up being stranded so if you decide
to rent a car that would involve much less stress. The bus
number is 190a and it leaves from the Plaza Canovas. However you
get there, I recommend ordering the crab and rice stew called
arros amb caranc, as well as a serving of spicy eels with
potatoes called all i pebre.
If you did decide to rent a
car, book a Valencian paella in Serra, which is up in the
mountains. This is what Valencians consider to be the authentic
paella and it is made with chicken, rabbit, snails, rosemary,
butter beans and green beans and cooked over a log fire. Again,
make sure you book ahead or you won't get any lunch. My
favourite place is La Balsa de San Antonio, just out of town,
tucked into a bend in the mountain road by a small reservoir.
Valencia can be a very
exciting place for food lovers but it won't happen downtown and
it won't happen easily. You need to go on adventures. By the
way, all the rice restaurants mentioned will happily prepare a
splendid vegetable paella if you order ahead.
Addresses
and Phone numbers
El
Aquilino Castell de Pop, Nazaret, Valencia 96 367 16 37
La Balsa
de San Antonio - Carretera Serra-Torres-Tores. (Valencia) tel.
961.688.434
Fine Art
Museum, San Pío V, 9
La Genuina
in Pinedo, number 283 Avenida Carrera del Riu 963248663
Bar
Serranos C/ Blanquerías, 5
Las
Tastaolletes C/ Salvador Giner, 6 (best to book at weekends 963
921 862)
El
Tostadero, Barón de Carcer, 31 |
